Technical
Minghua1. Assemble proper materials for the job (proper cement, primer and applicator for the size of piping system to be assembled)
2. Pipe must be cut as square as possible. Use a hand saw and miter box or mechanical saw .A diagonal cut reduces bonding area in the most effective part of the joint.
3. Plastic tubing cutters may also be used for cutting plastic pipe ; however ,some produce a raised bead at the end of the pipe. This bead must be removed with a ile or reamer, as it will wipe the cement away when pipe in inserted into the itting.
4. Remove all burrs from both the inside and outside of the pipe with a knife, file or reamer. Burrs can scrape channels into pre-softened surfaces or create hang-ups inside surface walls.
5. Remove dirt, grease and moisture. A thorough wipe with a clean dry rag is usually suficient.(moisture will retard cure and dirt or grease can prevent adhesion)
6. Check pipe and ittings for dry it before cementing. For proper interference fit, fitting should go over end of pipe easily but become tight about 1/3 to 3/4 of the way on . Too tight a fit is not desirable ; you must be able to fully bottom the pipe in the socket during assembly . If the pipe and ittings are not out of round , a satisfactory joint can be made it .
7. Use the right applicator for the size of pipe or fittings being joined. The applicator size should be
equal to 1/2 the pipe diameter. It is important that a satisfactory size applicator be used to help ensure that suficient layers of cement are applied.
8. Priming: the purpose of a primer is to penetrate and soften the surfaces so they can fuse together.The proper use of a primer and checking its softening effect provides assurance that the surfaces are
prepared for fusion in a wide variety of conditions. Because weather conditions do affect priming and cementing action, repeated applications to either or both surfaces may be necessary. In cold weather , more time is required for proper penetration.
9. Using the correct applicator (as outlined in step7), aggressively work the primer into fitting socket,keeping the surface and applicator wet until thesurface has been softened. More applications maybe needed for hard surfaces and cold weatherconditions. Re-dip the applicator in primer asrequired. When the surface is primed, remove anypuddles of primer from socket.
10. Next, aggressively work the primer on to the end of the pipe to a point 1/2” beyond the depth of the itting socket.
11. A second application of primer in the socket is recommended.
12.Immediately ,and while the surfaces are still wet, apply the appropriate。
13. Cementing; (Still the cement or shake can before using); Using the proper size applicator for the pipesize, aggressively work a full even layer of cement on to the pipe end equal to the depth of the itting socket do not brush it out to a thin paint type layer, as this will dry within a few seconds.
14. Aggressively work a medium layer of cement into the itting socket; avoid pudding cement in the socket. On bell-end pipe do not coat beyond the socket depth or allow cement to run down into the pipe beyond the bell.
15.Apply a second full, even layer of cement on thepipe.
16. Without delay, while cement is still wet, assemble the pipe and fittings. Use sufficient force to ensure hat the pipe bottoms in the itting socket. If possible, wist the pipe a 1/4 turn as you insert it. Stop turning when pipe tits bottom.
17. Hold the pipe and f i t t ing together for approximately 30 seconds to avoid push put.
18. After assembly, a joint should have a ring or bead of cement completely around the juncture of the pipe and itting. If voids in this ring are present, suficient cement was not applied and the joint may be defective.
19. Using a rag, remove the excess cement from the pipe and ittings, including the ring or bead, as it will needlessly soften the pipe and ittings and does not add to joint strength. Avoid disturbing or moving the joint.
20. Handle newly assembled joints carefully until initial set has taken place.
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